Pizza 42 and Donair, nestled in the Boardwalk Centre on lower Jasper Avenue, is a paradox of charm, flavour, and inconsistency. For such a generically-named eatery, it offers an eclectic menu that ranges from classic pizzas and donairs to Indian biryani, curry, and paneer dishes, and it has earned both loyal patrons and the odd skeptic.

The food is very good. Local regulars rave about the juicy beef donairs, BBQ chicken pizza, and generously portioned poutines. Many customers mention the warm hospitality from staff members, who have a reputation for being welcoming, friendly, and even generous - sometimes offering free samples or drinks with large orders. The biryani and samosas, a nod to the restaurant’s South Asian roots, get a lot of praise for bold flavour and authenticity. That curious mixture drew our group of five.

With hours extending well into the early morning, the focus is as a take-out business, but we ate in and took advantage of the many booths for up to four, framed by the enormous and varied menu boards. It even has a well stocked bar behind the long counter!

Starting with the namesake pies, we noticed one pizza that was not so ordinary: the Punjabi. The crust impressed me first, with a bubbly edge and a soft chew perfectly in the middle between Italian and North American styles. Toppings were very generous and full of flavour, with red onion, black olives, and bright red and yellow banana peppers, backed up by ginger, cilantro, and mushroom – delicious!

From the Indian menu, one highlight was the Tandoori Fish, with huge chunks of red snapper seasoned with a lemony onion-ginger-masala paste on a bed of salad. A few of us don’t eat fish, so went for the the Chicken Biryani, a rich meal with four chicken drumsticks grilled after being marinated in Indian spices and yoghurt. The bright red legs were served on a deep bed of biryani - a basmati rice dish seasoned with masala spices. We also enjoyed the Goat Curry, which is a seasoned gravy with cubes of goat meat, eaten alongside naan bread to soak up the savoury liquid. If you’re a “dipper” this is real comfort food. Any of these three could be an entire meal in itself.

To wash it all down, we enjoyed the Mango Lassi, a sweet and tart Indian classic similar to a smoothie or milkshake - a great dessert. We were pleasantly surprised when a complimentary dessert arrived - Gulab Jamun, which are doughnut-like cake balls, soaked in a cardamom honey sauce - divine! We left smiling for under $100 including tip, which is less than $20 a person - wow! And so many choices to come back for.

Pizza 42 is a quirky neighbourhood gem that delivers on flavour and friendliness with an unexpected combination of items and great value. It’s a place with soul and really expresses the mosaic of cultures and tastes that makes our neighbourhood - and country - so special.

Alan Schietzsch lives in McCauley. He is the former Chair of the paper’s Board of Directors.